Lima, Peru

A necessary stop on the way to someplace interesting

September 2001 and September 2003

To visit Peru, you probably have to fly into Lima. I don't like cities very much, and I particularly don't think much of Lima. I find it to be particularly noisy, not particularly safe, and not exceptionally interesting. Its main use to me is its airport, to which I must fly, and from which I want to fly as soon as possible. However, given that you will probably have to spend at least a day there, I will offer some suggestions.

 

The Airport Upon arrival at the airport you will pass through immigration. No sweat, but be sure to keep the piece of paper they stamp and hand you. You will need it to leave the country. Actually, that's a good rule for any country. Keep everything they give you when you enter the country. You might need it to leave.

Taxis have various costs, depending on where you hire them. Lonely Planet has instructions on where to walk to get the cheapest cabs (avoiding those dedicated to airport transit only). Do not accept a cab from someone asking you if you want a cab. Always proceed to an official cab stand. There are unlicenced cabs, and drivers who will rob you. Beware. I recommend that before you leave from home, arrange with your Lima hotel to have a car and driver sent to meet you at the airport. This will be much safer, and probably less expensive, than taking a cab from the airport. I paid US $12 for this kind of transit from the airport to the Miraflores district in September, 2001. My more high priced hotel in 2003 was asking US $20.

 

Miraflores Miraflores is the most modern, and probably the least unsafe district of Lima. Most tourists stay here, and for good reason.

No matter where you stay, Miraflores (and probably all of Lima) is very noisy. Taxi's are abundant. They honk their horns at anyone who gets in their way (every 30 seconds or so), and at anyone walking on the sidewalk near them. ("You shouldn't be walking. You should be riding in my cab! And anyway, I am desperate for a fare.") If you walk down a main street, expect to be honked at every half minute or so. Car theft alarms go on at all times, day and night. (Maybe there is a reason for that...) Wherever you stay, bring ear plugs so you can sleep. (No kidding.)

All Miraflores hotels will give you a free map of the area. Be sure to ask for one, along with a card with the address of the hotel on it, in case you get lost and must take a cab back.

The main street in Miraflores is Avenida Larco, between a park and elegant shopping center near the ocean and another park (Parque Central) and traffic circle (Ovajo Jose Pardo) where several main streets seem to come together. I stay oriented by always knowing where that street is in relation to where I am or am going.

Never flag down a taxi on the street. You might find yourself robbed. Safest is to ask your hotel or the business with whom you are dealing to call a car or cab for you. Make sure that the cab driver who shows up knows your name. Next safest is to find a cab at an official taxi stand. There is a good possibility that the drivers there know who is and is not legit.

I got tired of walking, and to listening to the taxis honking at me as I walked up and down Av. Larco, so I started taking those small van-buses. A short local ride costs 50 centavos (about US 15 cents), while one to the center of Lima costs 3 Soles (less than US $1). They come by every 30 seconds or so, with a guy hanging out of it yelling where he is going. The trick, I think is to wait for one that is not full. I suspect it would be very difficult to pick the pocket of someone sitting down. Everyone on the busses seemed calm and bored and not particularly paranoid, so I guess I was doing something safe.

 

Lodging A nice, inexpensive small hotel in Miraflores is Hotel San Antonio Abad. It is a few blocks away from the main part of town, and so is bit less noisy than the main downtown hotels. The room on the main floor facing the courtyard is truly quiet and as spacious as a room in a Motel 6, but with considerably more charm. The outside facing rooms on the main floor will have more traffic noise, but are equally spacious. The rooms on the upper floors are smaller, but still seem comfortable for someone on a budget. In September, 2001, we paid $49 for two people, which included a nice breakfast and airport pickup. As I remember it, this price was less than the one then quoted on the website, so it is worth asking. The airport pickup at that time was valued at $12. We were in fact picked up as scheduled by a young college student named Jorge Fernandez, who we found waiting for us at the airport with a sign with our names on it. If he is still driving, I recommend his services. He will drive you anywhere. He speaks passable English, and is a safe driver. His Lima phone number is (or was) 997-1349.

 

Food I can recommend the tiny restaurant Ricota, Boulevard Tarata Miraflores No. 248. This is a pedestrian only street between Av. Larco and Alcanfores, a few blocks toward the Ocean from the traffic circle I mentioned. A wonderful Peruvian appetizer served here and elsewhere is called Lenguado, made from potato, egg, and whatever they want to put into it. Mine had avocado, chicken and some spices. Outstanding! The main fish course was excellent, as was the Peruvian beer, Cusqueña (from Cusco).

There is a supermarket on a street between Av. Larco and Alcanfores, about two blocks towards the ocean from this restaurant. Good place for lunch stuff.

At the ocean end of Av. Larco there is a park. Just below that park, towards the ocean, is a very modern, multi level shopping center. There are several good, but pricy restaurants within that center. After the meal, there is a gellato store with outstanding Italian ice cream available in a zillion flavors. My favorites are Fresia (Strawberry) and Limón (Lemon).

 

Shopping Artisan shops can be found clustered in several centers on Av. Petit Thouras. Walk up to that circle I mentioned, turn right, then left Av. Petit for 4 blocks or so. You will find native artisans sell their stuff in typical small booths in shopping enclosures. Be sure to bargain. The small van-busses I mentioned run on Avenida Arequipa, parallel to and one block over from Av. Petit.

A number of artists display and sell their work in the park near the circle (Parque Central), late afternoons and evenings. The prices are not very high, and the quality is sometimes quite nice. This park is also a good place to get your shoes shined. Cheap. Fun. (I always try to bring a pair of shineable shoes to Latin America. Getting my shoes shined in a town square or park and getting a haircut from a local barber are my two favorite ways to make contact with local people.)

There are lots of expensive shops on Av. Larco and in the shopping center I mentioned at the ocean end of it.

For some very nice quality crafts I highly recommend a small walking shopping area called Centro Comercial "El Suche". Its walkway goes between Alcanfores and Av. La Paz 646, and is parallel to and between Av. Benvanides and Schell. Look for Hotel El Condado on Alcanfores and walk beside it into the block.

 

Money Both local paper money (Soles) and US currency must be in near perfect condition to be acceptable in Peru. Tears, stains, holes, and worn bills are not accepted. Be sure to take a good look at any bills you receive. (I started to actually enjoy rejecting the same kinds of bills Peruvians would reject. There was some justice there.) This sensitivity to imperfect bills is common in many developing countries. I have my bank get new U.S. bills for me and keep a stash for travel only.

When leaving Lima on an international flight, consider:

  • You may pay your exit tax in US Dollars, Soles, or a combination of both.
  • You will pass through Peruvian immigration control, for what reason I was not able to understand (due to my less than perfect understanding of Spanish). Be sure to have the piece of paper they gave you and stamped when you entered the country. Dire consequences were mentioned for not having it, but I saw no one test that.
  • After that point, prices for everything suddenly become greater than those in U.S. airports. I paid US$6 for a $4 sandwich (which probable made me sick 1 1/2 days later). Buy whatever food you need before you arrive at the airport. Internet access was very expensive compared to the usual US $0.60/hour in Lima.

 

Letters to Home Here are some excerpts from a few emails I sent home from Lima on my second trip, to my companion on my first trip. They might provide a idea of the flavor of the place.

I had just gone shopping at the places I mentioned: After a second trip to the bank, suffice it to say that Christmas is looking better. I will be spending time expanding my luggage and/or finding the local UPS office. I may have to make some items look like clothing I am wearing (for the flight home). If they look at me oddly, I will just tell them I am from California.

Driving is still very competitive. Seems that the right of way belongs to the largest or most aggressive vehicle. This becomes interesting when a large bus and one of those small taxis meet. I have seen the taxi win the argument occasionally.

The afternoon was spent on a bus tour of the city. Same stuff we saw. City square, old buildings, museum (yawn) and the UNESCO heritage church with that wonderful woodwork in the ceiling.

Tonight we were taken to dinner at a restaurant in that modern shopping center by the sea. Another great Languado (fish in it this time), good chicken dinner, and flan. Then some gellato (Fresa y Limón), of course. The gave me an excellent red wine from Argentina. Winery = Marqués de Parra. Grape = Malbec Bonarda. I hope it is imported to the U.S.

Last night, while walking along the iron fence behind the city hall, I hear a very loud meowing. I looked down on the sidewalk and saw the tiniest kitten I have ever seen. He was smaller than my fist. No mama in sight. The kitten was so young it could barely walk. It did make it on its own volition behind the fence and into a bush. Perhaps Mama was hunting or doing her route to find food from kind people. I am glad you didn't see this. We would have had a kitten in our room.

I asked if there was anything like a humane society in Peru. I was told that there are people trying to protect wildlife, but no one trying to protect cats and dogs. I was told that the country has too many problems just caring for its people. No money for pets. In fact, no money for any kind of welfare system at all. There do seem to be more beggars on the street that three years ago. Sad. And I saw very few tourists patronizing the artisan shops today. I think people are hurting.

Today I tried to find the kitten again. No cats to be found anywhere. So hopefully Mama found her baby and took it to wherever she calls home. Please tell our cats how lucky they are to own us.

The woman of a couple very experienced world travelers put her purse over the back of her chair in a restaurant. It was stolen. I guess we can get lax with experience. The man is now emailing his son to mail him the key to his car, which is in an airport parking lot. They were carrying only one key between him, in her purse. Amazing. He and his son live 2 1-2 hours from the airport. I suggested Fed Ex.